Bayou hits the "spot"
By Tara Nelson
Okay, okay. So I don't know much about cajun food. Neither can I brag about having an extensive knowledge about the history of creole and southern cooking with the exception that, as with most great culinary traditions, it began out of economic necessity.
One thing I do know, though, is restaurants that offer delicious food made from honest ingredients and prepared conscientiously by cooks who pay close attention to detail are difficult to come by. This is why Bayou on the Bay is quickly becoming my all-time favorite restaurant in Bellingham – no, in Whatcom County.
Since I began spending my hard-earned reporter's salary here last fall, I have not been disappointed. With the exception of an anti-climactic corn fritter appetizer topped with a ubiquitous tomato-okra relish that erred on the side of boring, menu items from the blackened tuna or the hand-breaded, hazlenut-encrusted catfish to the barbecue po' boy sandwiches or more traditional jambalaya, have consistently delivered "oohs" and "ahs" or even the occassional "yes, yes, yes!"
But like any good thing in life, it first enters your life as a welcome guest, then it becomes a necessity, and finally, one day you realize it owns you.
While some Bellingham restaurants are aiming to capture tourist dollars at prices mostly out of reach for long-time locals here, owner Steve Crosier had insisted on creating an affordable menu and a casual atmosphere where individuals of all backgrounds and income levels feel comfortable.
Like me, he admits he is not the world's leading expert on Creole, but ironically, and perhaps unknowingly, his unpretentious attitude is rightly in synch with the cultural traditions of classic southern cooking, the soul of which was never intended to be kept in the confines of a white tablecloth restaurant. Besides, that would clash with the festive artwork celebrating jazz musicians, the vibrant purple and red wall paint, the hanging Mardi Gras beads and zydeco music.
"My parameters were casual and affordable," he said. "I had no aspirations of being anything like a high-class or fancy restaurant. This town really can't afford too many expensive restaurants. Plus, it's just not me."
Before Bayou, I was nearly a southern food virgin. There was the one exception of the deep-fried experience of the short-lived Miss Jean's kitchen in north Whatcom County run by Jean Luke, an Atlanta native who once nearly fed the entire state of Georgia though her cafeteria-style Chickenman Restaurant.
Bayou's menu has mostly veered away from the traditional greasiness of cajun cooking and expanded beautifully to adapt to Bellingham's vegan and vegetarian leanings, something that Crosier admits has not been easy.
Crosier and his kitchen manager Jim Wysocki, a graduate of Bellingham Technical College's culinary arts program, accomplished this by replacing meat in traditional dishes like gumbo and jambalaya with vegetables such as celery, onions, green peppers, red beans, okra and tomato. Their blackened roasted vegetable po' boy sandwich ($7.99) is another successful adaptation and employs a mix of five vegetables grilled and topped with melted gouda cheese and a smoked tomato-okra relish that complemented the sandwich better than the corn fritters.
(Still, I have to admit this mostly-vegetarian foodie could not resist bites of Bayou's in-house smoked pulled pork sandwich ($7.99) off my friend's plate. The sandwich was smothered in Uncle D's barbecue sauce and topped with sharp cheddar on a toasted roll and each guilt-laden bite was equally blissful. All sandwiches come with a side of sweet potato fries or collard slaw.)
Of course, I have spent my entire life in Washington's coastal towns eating some of the best seafood in the world. As the neice of a ferry captain and the granddaughter of Guemes Island settlers, it shouldn't come as a surprise that my hands-down favorite was the crawfish and crab cakes ($6.99) that come two on a plate with a serving of the most fantastic collard green slaw. The deceptively simple salad employs the usual shredded cabbage and carrot, collard greens and is drizzled with a delightfully tangy buttermilk lime dressing. The crab cakes are also delicious with sweet and spicy Tiger hot sauce available on most tables.
Their new brunch menu (Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.) is equally fabulous and includes interesting southern adaptations to the standard breakfast fare. Try the pecan pancakes ($5.50), the blackened vegetable scramble ($7.99) or the crawfish and crab eggs benedict ($9.99) made with their house-made cajun hollandaise, cobb-smoked ham and served with cajun roasted potatoes. The food is not spicy, just flavorful.
Future plans
Crosier said he also plans on expanding the bar area into the former Steel Expressions, tattoo and piercing studio in March. The approximately 300-square foot space will nearly double the size of their bar (the former playroom at Stuart's Coffeehouse) and allow more space for refrigeration. After the completion of that, Crosier said he plans to add a bar menu with smaller and more affordable sandwhiches and menu items. He also said he wants to expand the restaurant's dessert menu to include less "pecan-centric" items.
Bayou on the Bay is open Monday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. They are located at 1300 Bay Street and can be reached by calling 360/75-BAYOU. Their web site is www.bayouonbay.com.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR-
Tara
Nelson grew up in
Skagit Valley, and attended Western Washington University
in journalism. Tara has been published
in the Seattle Times, NW Business Monthly, The Anacortes
American, and various trade journals. Currently, Tara works
for The Northern Light newspaper in Blaine. She has a particular
interest in food writing and her kitchen is filled with
an insane variety of condiments from all over the world.
©2008 Taste of Whatcom™
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06-2008
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